Flat head Kabuki Brush
round brushes size 1 and 3
Elmer’s school glue stick
Loose or compact body powder
In case you have thick eyebrows and prefer crisp lines all around your eyes, you may want to consider smoothing your brows with the “gluestick method” before you start to paint. I wanted to have a very quick simple Sugarskull so I did not smooth my brows. For best results please refer to the instructions at the end of this post **.
For this design I tried something a bit unusual; for two reasons I started with the details instead of the white base. First, it is easier to paint a rose with much depth direct on skin instead on the top of a white base that will most likely smudge your rose paint and in case you need a second attempt, it’s also easier to wipe it off and get it right, before you have to fix the base too. The other reason is, that; if you start with the white base, the lumiere powders that you will use around the eyes tend to crumble down and it is more difficult to wipe the powder off a white base than from clean skin. I tried to prevent rather than cure.
So load your flat brush very carefully with paint from your one stroke cake (not too wet not too dry) and start with the rose on top. Build it to the size you feel looks best.
Then load your Makeup Applicator with BenNye Lumiere silver and paint a butterfly shape around your eyes, fill it out with silver and apply also the nose and shape it very rudimentary. Wipe off the excess on your lips.
Then load the same Applicator with Mehron Starblends black and give the nose tip dimension and a smoky rim around the butterfly shaped eye socket.
Now apply an even coat of white base to your whole face. Use your Kabuki brush for this and I recommend white Kryolan for even coverage. Apply with a damp brush and in small circles with moderate pressure. If you use a Kabuki with sharp edges it is easy to blend close to the details in one step even with a big Kabuki brush.
Now you load the Petal brush with Wolfe black and place petals around your dark circles. Try to start in big ovals on the outter edge and come in ¾ of the eye for as long as your brush makes nice petals (you might want to turn your brush with every stroke to get the full load of paint), and paint them smaller with every dot until they are round. Then you do the same on the upper part of the eye and on the second eye. Connect the petals with black dots that you paint with a Dotter to make them nice round and small.
Paint on the second rose.
Paint on the cheek lines with a good one stroke load and contour the nose with Wolfe black.
Now prolong the natural lip line about ¾” each side and paint on the stitches with a fine round brush number 1 and Wolfe black. Shade the lines and the stitches slightly with the darkest brown from your BenNye Glam pressed powder palette.
I used black holographic glitter on the eye socket and white holographic glitter on top of the nose as well as on the lower lip between the stitches. The glitter adheres best if you dab on a tiny bit of Petroleum jelly with a Qtip and use the other side of the Qtip to get a small amount of glitter out of the container to apply it.
Finish off with white Highlights on the roses if you like.
**Glue stick Method to cover your eyebrows; Comb your brows in the direction of their growth. Coat them in a layer of body powder. Now apply a layer of glue. Apply powder again until it is not sticky anymore (repeat 2-3 times until your brows are blended in and the surface feel smooth, last coat must be powder)
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